Hasselback potatoes are whole potatoes sliced thinly across their width, with every cut stopping about a quarter inch short of the bottom so the potato holds together. In the oven the slices fan open, the edges turn crisp, and the center stays creamy. The secret is entirely in the knife work: lay the potato between two chopsticks or wooden spoon handles, and cut straight down until the blade hits them. The guides stop the knife at the same depth every time.
The dish is named after Hasselbacken, a restaurant in Stockholm, Sweden. A student chef is said to have served it there in 1953, though an earlier Swedish cookbook recipe for similar oven-fried potatoes leaves the question of who made them first open. Either way, it has become a holiday side in American kitchens, and it is easier than it looks.
Choose the right potato
Medium potatoes of about six to eight ounces are the easiest to handle. Very large ones take too long to cook through before the edges burn.
Yukon Golds are the most forgiving choice. Their thin skin crisps well, and their waxy-creamy flesh holds its shape between the thin slices.
Russets give a fluffier interior and crisper edges, but they are more fragile. The slices can break apart if cut too thin.
Small red or fingerling potatoes make bite-size hasselbacks for a party. Cut them the same way, with slices a little closer together.
Choose potatoes with a regular oval shape. Knobs and bends make the slicing uneven.
Set up the guides
Scrub the potatoes and dry them well. If a potato rocks on the board, cut a very thin slice from one long side to give it a flat base. A potato that rolls under the knife is the main safety risk here.
Lay two chopsticks, or the handles of two wooden spoons, on the board parallel to each other, a potato’s width apart. Set the potato between them, flat side down, along its length.
When you slice straight down, the knife meets the chopsticks before it reaches the board. That leaves an uncut base of about a quarter inch, depending on the thickness of the guides. Thicker handles leave a thicker base; thinner chopsticks leave a thinner, more fragile one.
Make the cuts
- Start at one end. Hold the potato steady with your fingertips curled under, on the end you have not cut yet.
- Slice straight down. Use a sharp chef’s knife or a thin slicing knife, and cut until the blade touches both guides.
- Keep the slices thin. Aim for about an eighth of an inch apart. Thinner slices fan out more and get crisper; thicker ones stay softer.
- Keep the blade vertical. If the knife leans, the slices will be wedge-shaped and the base will be cut through on one side.
- Work to the other end. Shift your guiding hand back as you go, keeping your fingers clear of the blade.
A sharp knife matters more for this cut than for most. A dull edge needs pressure, and pressure pushes the knife through the base or snaps off the end slices. If yours drags, a few strokes on a honing rod first will help; sharpening a knife at home covers when honing is not enough.
If a cut goes through the base, do not throw the potato out. Press it back together; it will still roast well.
Season between the slices
Rinse the cut potatoes under cold water, fanning the slices slightly to wash out the surface starch, then dry them very well. Dry potatoes crisp; wet ones steam.
Brush the outside with melted butter or olive oil, working the brush down between the slices. Season with salt and pepper.
For more flavor, tuck thin slices of garlic, a few thyme leaves, or a little grated Parmesan between the layers partway through cooking, not at the start, so they do not burn.
Roast them
Roast the potatoes on a sheet pan at 425°F. After about 30 minutes, when the slices have begun to open, brush them again with butter or oil, letting it run into the gaps.
Return them to the oven for another 20 to 30 minutes, until the edges are deep golden and crisp and a knife slides into the center with no resistance. Medium potatoes usually take about an hour in total. A pinch of flaky salt at the end finishes them.
To speed things up, parboil the uncut potatoes for about 10 minutes and cool them before slicing. They will roast in less time, but they are softer to cut, so handle them gently.
The board for the job
The cutting setup takes up more room than a potato does. The board needs space for the chopsticks, the potato, and room for your hand to move along the length without crowding.
The WONAMU. acacia cutting board is 12 by 9 inches, with room for two parallel guides and the potato between them. Its weight keeps it from shifting while you make the repeated straight cuts. Rinse off the starch, wash it with warm soapy water, and dry it on edge.
Make them ahead
For a holiday table, the slicing can be done in the morning. Keep the cut potatoes submerged in cold water in the refrigerator so they do not brown, then drain and dry them very well before brushing and roasting.
They are best straight from the oven. If they must wait, hold them uncovered in a low oven so the edges stay crisp.
Common mistakes
- Skipping the guides. Freehand cuts go too deep on some slices and not deep enough on others.
- Slices too thick. The potato will not fan, and the edges will not crisp.
- Not drying after rinsing. Wet slices steam instead of roasting.
- Adding garlic or cheese at the start. It burns before the potato is done.
- A rolling potato. Cut a flat base before you begin.
The short version
Give each potato a flat base, lay it between two chopsticks, and cut thin slices straight down until the blade meets the guides. Rinse, dry, brush with butter or oil, and season.
Roast at 425°F for about an hour, brushing again halfway, until the slices are crisp and golden and the center is tender.
❋
WONAMU. makes an acacia cutting board designed for daily prep, 12 × 9 inches, acacia, with a perimeter juice groove. Available on Amazon.
Designed by nature.
